ORCID Profile
0000-0002-0174-3741
Current Organisation
University of Waikato
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Palaeoclimatology | Quaternary Environments | Marine Geoscience | Physical Geography and Environmental Geoscience
Effects of Climate Change and Variability on Australia (excl. Social Impacts) | Natural Hazards in Coastal and Estuarine Environments | Natural Hazards in Antarctic and Sub-Antarctic Environments |
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 09-2012
Publisher: The Oceanography Society
Date: 09-2017
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 11-2015
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 12-2016
Publisher: MDPI AG
Date: 03-03-2021
DOI: 10.3390/JMSE9030272
Abstract: Natural formations of rock and coral can support geologically controlled beaches, where the beach dynamics are significantly influenced by these structures. However, little is known about how alongshore variations in geological controls influence beach morphodynamics. Therefore, in this study we focus on the storm response of a beach (Yanchep in south Western Australia) that has strong alongshore variation in the level of geological control because of the heterogeneous calcarenite limestone reef. We used a modified version of XBeach to simulate the beach morphodynamics during a significant winter storm event. We find that the longshore variation in topography of the reef resulted in: (1) strong spatial difference in current distribution, including areas with strong currents jets and (2) significant alongshore differences in sand flux, with larger fluxes in areas strongly geologically controlled by reefs. In particular, this resulted in enhanced beach erosion at the boundary of the reef where strong currents jet-exited the nearshore.
Publisher: Springer Science and Business Media LLC
Date: 11-2017
DOI: 10.1038/NJ7679-263A
Publisher: Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Date: 03-03-2016
DOI: 10.2112/SI75-076.1
Publisher: Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Date: 05-2018
DOI: 10.2112/SI85-029.1
Publisher: Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Date: 03-03-2016
DOI: 10.2112/SI75-183.1
Publisher: Springer Science and Business Media LLC
Date: 04-09-2018
DOI: 10.1057/S41599-018-0154-0
Abstract: Robust data are the base of effective gender ersity policy. Evidence shows that gender inequality is still pervasive in science, technology, engineering and mathematics (STEM). Coastal geoscience and engineering (CGE) encompasses professionals working on coastal processes, integrating expertise across physics, geomorphology, engineering, planning and management. The article presents novel results of gender inequality and experiences of gender bias in CGE, and proposes practical steps to address it. It analyses the gender representation in 9 societies, 25 journals, and 10 conferences in CGE and establishes that women represent 30% of the international CGE community, yet there is under-representation in prestige roles such as journal editorial board members (15% women) and conference organisers (18% women). The data show that female underrepresentation is less prominent when the path to prestige roles is clearly outlined and candidates can self-nominate or volunteer instead of the traditional invitation-only pathway. By analysing the views of 314 survey respondents (34% male, 65% female, and 1% ‘‘other’’), we show that 81% perceive the lack of female role models as a key hurdle for gender equity, and a significantly larger proportion of females (47%) felt held back in their careers due to their gender in comparison with males (9%). The lack of women in prestige roles and senior positions contributes to 81% of survey respondents perceiving the lack of female role models in CGE as a key hurdle for gender equality. While it is clear that having more women as role models is important, this is not enough to effect change. Here seven practical steps towards achieving gender equity in CGE are presented: (1) Advocate for more women in prestige roles (2) Promote high-achieving females (3) Create awareness of gender bias (4) Speak up (5) Get better support for return to work (6) Redefine success and, (7) Encourage more women to enter the discipline at a young age. Some of these steps can be successfully implemented immediately (steps 1–4), while others need institutional engagement and represent major societal overhauls. In any case, these seven practical steps require actions that can start immediately.
Publisher: Springer Science and Business Media LLC
Date: 02-02-2012
Publisher: California Digital Library (CDL)
Date: 19-01-2023
DOI: 10.31223/X5P612
Abstract: The wave field in coastal bays is comprised of waves generated by far-off storms and waves generated locally by winds inside the bay and regionally outside the bay. The resultant wave field varies spatially and temporally and is expected to control morphologic features, such as beaches in estuaries and bays (BEBs). However, neither the wave field nor the role of waves in shaping BEBs have been well-studied, limiting the efficacy of coastal protection and restoration projects. Here we present observations of the wave field in Tomales Bay, a 20 km long, narrow, semi-enclosed embayment on the wave-dominated coast of Northern California (USA) with a tidal range of 2.5 m. We deployed pressure sensors in front of several beaches along the linear axis of the bay. Low-frequency waves (4 * 10^-2 * 2.5 * 10*^-1 Hz or 4 - 25 s period) dissipated within 4 km of the mouth, delineating the "outer bay" region, where remotely-generated swell and regionally-generated wind waves can dominate. The "inner bay" spectrum, further landward, is dominated by fetch-limited waves generated within the bay with frequency = 2.5 10*-1 Hz. The energy of both ocean waves and locally-generated wind waves across all sites were modulated by the tide, owing to tidal changes in water depth and currents. Wave energies were typically low at low tide and high at high tide. Thus, in addition to fluctuations in winds and the presence of ocean waves, tides exert a strong control on the wave energy spectra at BEBs in mesotidal regions. In general, it is expected that events that can reshape beaches occur during high wind or swell events that occur at high-tide, when waves can reach the beaches with less attenuation. However, no such events were observed during our study and questions remain as to how rarely such wind-tide concurrences occur across the bay.
Publisher: Wiley
Date: 05-10-2020
DOI: 10.1002/ESP.5005
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 05-2018
Publisher: Springer Science and Business Media LLC
Date: 08-2017
Abstract: Coastal flooding caused by extreme sea levels can produce devastating and wide-ranging consequences. The ‘SurgeWatch’ v1.0 database systematically documents and assesses the consequences of historical coastal flood events around the UK. The original database was inevitably biased due to the inconsistent spatial and temporal coverage of sea-level observations utilised. Therefore, we present an improved version integrating a variety of ‘soft’ data such as journal papers, newspapers, weather reports, and social media. SurgeWatch2.0 identifies 329 coastal flooding events from 1915 to 2016, a more than fivefold increase compared to the 59 events in v1.0. Moreover, each flood event is now ranked using a multi-level categorisation based on inundation, transport disruption, costs, and fatalities: from 1 (Nuisance) to 6 (Disaster). For the 53 most severe events ranked Category 3 and above, an accompanying event description based upon the Source-Pathway-Receptor-Consequence framework was produced. Thus, SurgeWatch v2.0 provides the most comprehensive and coherent historical record of UK coastal flooding. It is designed to be a resource for research, planning, management and education.
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 08-2020
Publisher: Springer Science and Business Media LLC
Date: 12-05-2015
Abstract: Coastal flooding caused by extreme sea levels can be devastating, with long-lasting and erse consequences. Historically, the UK has suffered major flooding events, and at present 2.5 million properties and £150 billion of assets are potentially exposed to coastal flooding. However, no formal system is in place to catalogue which storms and high sea level events progress to coastal flooding. Furthermore, information on the extent of flooding and associated damages is not systematically documented nationwide. Here we present a database and online tool called ‘SurgeWatch’, which provides a systematic UK-wide record of high sea level and coastal flood events over the last 100 years (1915-2014). Using records from the National Tide Gauge Network, with a dataset of exceedance probabilities and meteorological fields, SurgeWatch captures information of 96 storms during this period, the highest sea levels they produced, and the occurrence and severity of coastal flooding. The data are presented to be easily assessable and understandable to a range of users including, scientists, coastal engineers, managers and planners and concerned citizens.
Publisher: Springer Science and Business Media LLC
Date: 10-09-2014
DOI: 10.1007/S00338-014-1205-7
Abstract: Offshore reef systems consist of in idual reefs, with spaces in between, which together constitute the reef matrix. This is the first comprehensive, large-scale study, of the influence of an offshore reef system on wave climate and wave transmission. The focus was on the Great Barrier Reef (GBR), Australia, utilizing a 16-yr record of wave height from seven satellite altimeters. Within the GBR matrix, the wave climate is not strongly dependent on reef matrix submergence. This suggests that after initial wave breaking at the seaward edge of the reef matrix, wave energy that penetrates the matrix has little depth modulation. There is no clear evidence to suggest that as reef matrix porosity (ratio of spaces between in idual reefs to reef area) decreases, wave attenuation increases. This is because in idual reefs cast a wave shadow much larger than the reef itself thus, a matrix of isolated reefs is remarkably effective at attenuating wave energy. This weak dependence of transmitted wave energy on depth of reef submergence, and reef matrix porosity, is also evident in the lee of the GBR matrix. Here, wave conditions appear to be dependent largely on local wind speed, rather than wave conditions either seaward, or within the reef matrix. This is because the GBR matrix is a very effective wave absorber, irrespective of water depth and reef matrix porosity.
Publisher: Coastal Engineering Research Council
Date: 18-10-2012
DOI: 10.9753/ICCE.V33.SEDIMENT.72
Abstract: Mechanisms through which natural rock and coral landforms interact with waves, currents, sediment transport and beach morphology are still poorly understood. Therefore, interactions between sediment transport and calcarenite limestone landforms at Yanchep Lagoon in southwestern Australia were investigated over a cascade of spatial and temporal scales: from single waves, through sea breeze and storm events, to seasonal and inter-annual variability. The hypotheses that were confirmed included: (1) hard landforms with higher elevations relative to sea level are more likely to reduce beach erosion but also to inhibit recovery and (2) the placement and continuity of landforms in the nearshore can generate current jets, and hence local sediment sources and sinks. These hypotheses were consistently confirmed at all scales, however results show that to fully explain changes at broader scales (such as inter-annual and seasonal changes) an understanding at finer scales (such as during sea breezes, storm event and single waves) was necessary.
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 2016
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 05-2019
Publisher: Springer Science and Business Media LLC
Date: 27-08-2014
DOI: 10.1038/NCLIMATE2344
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 04-2011
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 12-2011
Publisher: Copernicus GmbH
Date: 14-01-2021
DOI: 10.5194/NHESS-21-115-2021
Abstract: Abstract. Rip currents (“rips”) are the leading cause of drowning on surf beaches worldwide. A major contributing factor is that many beachgoers are unable to identify rip currents. Previous research has attempted to quantify beachgoers' rip identification ability using photographs of rip currents without identifying whether this usefully translates into an ability to identify a rip current in situ at the beach. This study is the first to compare beachgoers ability to identify rip currents in photographs and in situ at a beach in New Zealand (Muriwai Beach) where a channel rip current was present. Only 22 % of respondents were able to identify the in situ rip current. The highest rates of success were for males (33 %), New Zealand residents (25 %), and local beach users (29 %). Of all respondents who were successful at identifying the rip current in situ, 62 % were active surfers/bodyboarders, and 28 % were active beach swimmers. Of the respondents who were able to identify a rip current in two photographs, only 34 % were able to translate this into a successful in situ rip identification, which suggests that the ability to identify rip currents by beachgoers is worse than reported by previous studies involving photographs. This study highlights the difficulty of successfully identifying a rip current in reality and that photographs are not necessarily a useful means of teaching in iduals to identify rip currents. It advocates for the use of more immersive and realistic education strategies, such as the use of virtual reality headsets showing moving imagery (videos) of rip currents in order to improve rip identification ability.
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 02-2022
Publisher: California Digital Library (CDL)
Date: 08-03-2021
DOI: 10.31223/X5RC9F
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 10-2013
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 11-2018
Publisher: Frontiers Media SA
Date: 06-11-2015
Start Date: 2021
End Date: 2024
Funder: Marsden Fund
View Funded ActivityStart Date: 04-2016
End Date: 12-2019
Amount: $332,900.00
Funder: Australian Research Council
View Funded Activity