ORCID Profile
0000-0002-1329-7945
Current Organisation
University of New South Wales
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Research Topics
In Research Link Australia (RLA), "Research Topics" refer to ANZSRC FOR and SEO codes. These topics are either sourced from ANZSRC FOR and SEO codes listed in researchers' related grants or generated by a large language model (LLM) based on their publications.
Top 5 Research Topics
ANZSRC Field of Research (FoR)
Natural hazards | Geography education curriculum and pedagogy | Natural Hazards | Physical Oceanography | Public health | Physical Geography and Environmental Geoscience | Injury prevention
ANZSRC Socio-Economic Objective (SEO)
Related Links
Publications
Assessing cross-shore and alongshore variation in beach morphology due to wave climate storms to decades
Publisher: The Oceanography Society
Date: 09-2017
Beach morphodynamics and types of foredune erosion generated by storms along the Emilia-Romagna coastline, Italy
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 10-2013
Calibrating and assessing uncertainty in coastal numerical models
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 07-2017
Controls of local geology and cross-shore/longshore processes on embayed beach shoreline variability
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 04-2020
Sub-annual to multi-decadal shoreline variability from publicly available satellite imagery
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 08-2019
Shoreline change mapping using crowd-sourced smartphone images
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 08-2019
Remote sensing is changing our view of the coast: Insights from 40 years of monitoring at Narrabeen-Collaroy, Australias
Publisher: MDPI AG
Date: 06-11-2018
DOI: 10.3390/RS10111744
Abstract: Narrabeen-Collaroy Beach, located on the Northern Beaches of Sydney along the Pacific coast of southeast Australia, is one of the longest continuously monitored beaches in the world. This paper provides an overview of the evolution and international scientific impact of this long-term beach monitoring program, from its humble beginnings over 40 years ago using the rod and tape measure Emery field survey method to today, where the application of remote sensing data collection including drones, satellites and crowd-sourced smartphone images, are now core aspects of this continuing and much expanded monitoring effort. Commenced in 1976, surveying at this beach for the first 30 years focused on in-situ methods, whereby the growing database of monthly beach profile surveys informed the coastal science community about fundamental processes such as beach state evolution and the role of cross-shore and alongshore sediment transport in embayment morphodynamics. In the mid-2000s, continuous (hourly) video-based monitoring was the first application of routine remote sensing at the site, providing much greater spatial and temporal resolution over the traditional monthly surveys. This implementation of video as the first of a now rapidly expanding range of remote sensing tools and techniques also facilitated much wider access by the international research community to the continuing data collection program at Narrabeen-Collaroy. In the past decade the video-based data streams have formed the basis of deeper understanding into storm to multi-year response of the shoreline to changing wave conditions and also contributed to progress in the understanding of estuary entrance dynamics. More recently, ‘opportunistic’ remote sensing platforms such as surf cameras and smartphones have also been used for image-based shoreline data collection. Commencing in 2011, a significant new focus for the Narrabeen-Collaroy monitoring program shifted to include airborne lidar (and later Unmanned Aerial Vehicles (UAVs)), in an enhanced effort to quantify the morphological impacts of in idual storm events, understand key drivers of erosion, and the placing of these observations within their broader regional context. A fixed continuous scanning lidar installed in 2014 again improved the spatial and temporal resolution of the remote-sensed data collection, providing new insight into swash dynamics and the often-overlooked processes of post-storm beach recovery. The use of satellite data that is now readily available to all coastal researchers via Google Earth Engine continues to expand the routine data collection program and provide key insight into multi-decadal shoreline variability. As new and expanding remote sensing technologies continue to emerge, a key lesson from the long-term monitoring at Narrabeen-Collaroy is the importance of a regular re-evaluation of what data is most needed to progress the science.
Enhanced Coastal Shoreline Modeling Using an Ensemble Kalman Filter to Include Nonstationarity in Future Wave Climates
Publisher: American Geophysical Union (AGU)
Date: 09-11-2020
DOI: 10.1029/2020GL090724
Abstract: A novel approach to improve seasonal to interannual sandy shoreline predictions is presented, whereby model‐free parameters can vary in time, adjusting to potential nonstationarity in the underlying model forcing. This is achieved by adopting a suitable data assimilation technique (dual state‐parameter ensemble Kalman filter) within the established shoreline evolution model ShoreFor. The method is first tested and evaluated using synthetic scenarios, specifically designed to emulate a broad range of natural sandy shoreline behavior. This approach is then applied to a real‐world shoreline data set, revealing that time‐varying model‐free parameters are linked through physical processes to changing characteristics of the wave forcing. Greater accuracy of shoreline predictions is achieved, compared to existing stationary modeling approaches. It is anticipated that the wider application of this method can improve our understanding and prediction of future beach erosion patterns and trends in a changing wave climate.
A storm hazard matrix combining coastal flooding and beach erosion
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 12-2021
Beach-face slope dataset for Australia
Publisher: Copernicus GmbH
Date: 18-11-2021
Abstract: Abstract. Sandy beaches are unique environments composed of unconsolidated sediments that are constantly reshaped by the action of waves, tides, currents, and winds. The most seaward region of the dry beach, referred to as the beach face, is the primary interface between land and ocean and is of fundamental importance to coastal processes, including the dissipation and reflection of wave energy at the coast, and the exchange of sediment between the land and sea. The slope of the beach-face is a critical parameter in coastal geomorphology and coastal engineering, necessary to calculate the total elevation and excursion of wave run-up at the shoreline. However, datasets of the beach-face slope remain unavailable along most of the world’s coastlines. This study presents a new dataset of beach-face slopes for the Australian coastline derived from a novel remote sensing technique. The dataset covers 13,200 km of sandy coast and provides an estimate of the beach-face slope at every 100 m alongshore, accompanied by an easy to apply measure of the confidence of each slope estimate. The dataset offers a unique view of large-scale spatial variability in beach-face slope and addresses the growing need for this information to predict coastal hazards around Australia. The beach-face slope dataset and relevant metadata are available at 0.5281/zenodo.5606217 (Vos et al., 2021)
Beach slopes from satellite-derived shorelines
Publisher: Wiley
Date: 23-07-2020
Beach slopes from satellite-derived shorelines
Publisher: Wiley
Date: 23-04-2020
A time-lapse of severe coastal erosion at Narrabeen-Collaroy Beach (SE Australia) during the June 2016 East Coast Low.
Publisher: Figshare
Date: 2017
Characteristics and beach safety knowledge of beachgoers on unpatrolled surf beaches in Australia
Publisher: Copernicus GmbH
Date: 24-11-2021
Abstract: Abstract. The majority of drowning deaths on Australian beaches occur significant distances away from lifeguard services. This study uses results of 459 surveys of beachgoers at five beaches unpatrolled by lifeguards in New South Wales, Australia to improve understanding of who visits these beaches and why, and to identify risk factors associated with their beach safety knowledge and behaviour. Many unpatrolled beach users were infrequent beachgoers and weak swimmers, with poor rip current hazard identification skills, who did not observe safety signage that was present, and yet intended to enter the water to swim despite being aware that no lifeguards were present. The survey found that the main reasons beachgoers visited unpatrolled beaches were because they were conveniently close to their holiday accommodation, or they represented a quieter location away from crowds. Future beach safety interventions in Australia need to extend beyond the standard ‘swim between the flags’ message in recognition that people will always frequent unpatrolled beaches. Future beach safety interventions for unpatrolled beaches should be tailored towards the varied types of demographic beach users, such as domestic tourist families, males, and day visitors attracted by social media.
Development of a Novel Vaginal Drug Delivery System to Control Time of Farrowing and Allow Supervision of Piglet Delivery
Publisher: MDPI AG
Date: 31-01-2022
DOI: 10.3390/PHARMACEUTICS14020340
Abstract: The swine industry has evolved significantly in the recent decades, but this has come at considerable expense to piglet survival. Breeding sows for greater prolificacy has been accompanied by a greater proportion of piglets being born underweight, of lower vigor, and higher susceptibility to early mortality. Inducing sows to farrow during working hours has the potential to increase piglet survivability, but non-therapeutic injectable products are often discouraged on farms. We aimed to design and develop a novel vaginal drug delivery system (NVDDS) that could reliably trigger luteolysis and induce parturition. To achieve this, two vaginal tablets containing the luteolytic agent cloprostenol were formulated to be inserted together: one would release constituents immediately on insertion (immediate release IR) and the other would release cloprostenol in a controlled manner (controlled release CR). The two formulations (IR and CR) were evaluated for drug release, swelling and bio-adhesion in conditions simulating the sow vaginal environment. The IR tablet released the drug completely for 5 min whereas the CR tablet took 5 h to release 50% of the drug. Furthermore, the release kinetics were evaluated by fitting the dissolution profiles into different mathematical models. Both IR and CR tablets were best fitted by the Makoid–Banakar model which assumes release by summation of different mechanisms. The performance of the optimized formulations was studied in vivo with 161 Large White x Landrace sows of varying parity (0–5). The sows were assigned to five groups. Group 1 (SI) received a single vulval injection of cloprostenol at 0700 h (n = 32), group 2 (SDI) received the same dose split in two parts, at 0700h and 1300h (n = 33). Group 3 (IRT) animals were administered an IR tablet at 0700h (n = 32), while group 4 (IRCRT) received both IR and CR tablets at 0700 h (n = 33). Group 5 was untreated and served as a control (n = 32). The interval to farrowing was longer (p 0.001) for controls than for treated sows, but there were no differences among cloprostenol treatments for timing of farrowing. The finding confirms the efficacy of the NVDDS for induction of farrowing in sows.
New Perspectives for Nonlinear Depth‐Inversion of the Nearshore Using Boussinesq Theory
Publisher: American Geophysical Union (AGU)
Date: 20-01-2023
DOI: 10.1029/2022GL100498
Abstract: Accurately mapping the evolving bathymetry under energetic wave breaking is challenging, yet critical for improving our understanding of sandy beach morphodynamics. Though remote sensing is one of the most promising opportunities for reaching this goal, existing depth‐inversion algorithms using linear approaches face major theoretical and/or technical issues in the surf zone, limiting their accuracy over this region. Here, we present a new depth‐inversion approach relying on Boussinesq theory for quantifying nonlinear dispersion effects in nearshore waves. Using high‐resolution datasets collected in the laboratory under erse wave conditions and beach morphologies, we demonstrate that this approach results in enhanced levels of accuracy in the surf zone (errors typically within 10%) and presents a major improvement over linear methods. The new nonlinear depth‐inversion approach provides significant prospects for future practical applications in the field using existing remote sensing technologies, including continuous lidar scanners and stereo‐imaging systems.
Environmental signal shredding on sandy coastlines
Publisher: Copernicus GmbH
Date: 10-2018
Abstract: Abstract. How storm events contribute to long-term shoreline change over decades to centuries remains an open question in coastal research. Sand and gravel coasts exhibit remarkable resilience to event-driven disturbances, and, in settings where sea level is rising, shorelines retain almost no detailed information about their own past positions. Here, we use a detailed, multi-decadal observational record of shoreline position to demonstrate quantitative indications of morphodynamic turbulence – signal shredding – in a sandy beach system. We find that, much like other dynamic sedimentary systems, processes of sediment transport that affect shoreline position at relatively short time-scales obscure or erase physical evidence of external forcing. This suggests that large forcing events like major coastal storms, even when their effects are recorded, may convey less about the dynamics of long-term shoreline change – and vice versa – than coastal researchers might wish.
Managing local coastal inundation risk using real-time forecasts and artificial dune placements
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 07-2013
Enhanced coastal shoreline modelling using an Ensemble Kalman Filter to include non-stationarity in future wave climates
Publisher: Wiley
Date: 26-10-2020
Beach Slopes From Satellite‐Derived Shorelines
Publisher: American Geophysical Union (AGU)
Date: 14-07-2020
DOI: 10.1029/2020GL088365
Abstract: The steepness of the beach face is a fundamental parameter for coastal morphodynamic research. Despite its importance, it remains extremely difficult to obtain reliable estimates of the beach‐face slope over large spatial scales (thousands of km of coastline). In this letter, a novel approach to estimate this slope from time series of satellite‐derived shoreline positions is presented. This new technique uses a frequency domain analysis to find the optimum slope that minimizes high‐frequency tidal fluctuations relative to lower‐frequency erosion/accretion signals. A detailed assessment of this new approach at eight locations spanning a range of tidal regimes, wave climates, and sediment grain sizes shows strong agreement ( R 2 = 0.93) with field measurements. The automated technique is then applied across thousands of beaches in eastern Australia and California, USA, revealing similar regional‐scale distributions along these two contrasting coastlines and highlights the potential for new global‐scale insight to beach‐face slope spatial distribution, variability, and trends.
Large regional variability in coastal erosion caused by ENSO
Publisher: Research Square Platform LLC
Date: 12-07-2021
DOI: 10.21203/RS.3.RS-666160/V1
Abstract: In the Pacific Basin, El Niño/Southern Oscillation (ENSO) is the dominant mode of interannual climate variability and drives substantial changes in oceanographic forcing, likely having a significant impact on Pacific coastlines. Yet, how sandy coasts respond to these basin-scale changes has to date been limited to a few long-term beach monitoring sites, predominantly on developed coasts. Here we use 35 years of Landsat imagery to map shoreline variability around the Pacific Rim (72,000 beach transects) and identify coherent patterns of beach erosion and accretion controlled by ENSO. We find that approximately one third of all beaches experience significant erosion during El Niño phases, with the Eastern Pacific particularly vulnerable to widespread erosion (most notably during the large 1997/1998 event). In contrast, La Niña events coincide with significant accretion for approximately one quarter of all beaches, although conversely drives substantial erosion in south-east Australia and other localized regions. The significant regional variability in coastal response to ENSO should be considered in light of future projected intensification and shifts in ENSO litudes and flavors.
The RISC-KIT storm impact database: A new tool in support of DRR
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 04-2018
Controls of Variability in Berm and Dune Storm Erosion
Publisher: American Geophysical Union (AGU)
Date: 11-2019
DOI: 10.1029/2019JF005184
Abstract: The erosion impact of large coastal storm events typically occurs across broad (100s of km) sections of coastline and may include significant variability both alongshore and vertically between the berm and dunes. Identifying controls of variability in storm erosion is critical to understanding the response of coastlines to present and changing storminess. This contribution analyses immediate pre‐ and post‐storm Lidar data of over 1700 cross‐shore profile transects, determined at every 100 m alongshore and spanning 400km of the southeast Australian coastline. This unique dataset allowed for a data‐driven Bayesian network analysis of the key relationships between the measured storm erosion response and a range of variables describing the antecedent morphology and hydrodynamic forcing at the coastline. It was found that while erosion of the dune and berm was observed to increase with increased exposure of the local profile to incident storm waves, additional erosion controls were found to be different for these two different sections of the beach. Erosion of the berm was specifically linked to the pre‐storm berm volume, with more accreted berms experiencing a greater proportion of erosion of the overall berm, regardless of variability in forcing conditions. In contrast, dune erosion was equally controlled by the exceedance of wave runup above the antecedent dune toe elevation and the width of the beach immediately fronting the dune, with wider beaches resulting in reduced dune erosion. The results of this large, data‐driven analysis provide important affirmation and insights into the primary controls of berm and dune storm erosion.
A simple data transformation technique for pre-processing survey data at embayed beaches
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 2008
Experiences and results from interdisciplinary collaboration: Utilizing qualitative information to formulate disaster risk reduction measures for coastal regions
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 04-2018
Beach-face slope dataset for Australia
Publisher: Copernicus GmbH
Date: 25-03-2022
DOI: 10.5194/ESSD-14-1345-2022
Abstract: Abstract. Sandy beaches are unique environments composed of unconsolidated sediments that are constantly reshaped by the action of waves, tides, currents, and winds. The most seaward region of the dry beach, referred to as the beach face, is the primary interface between land and ocean and is of fundamental importance to coastal processes, including the dissipation and reflection of wave energy at the coast and the exchange of sediment between the land and sea. The slope of the beach face is a critical parameter in coastal geomorphology and coastal engineering, as it is needed to calculate the total elevation and excursion of wave run-up at the shoreline. However, datasets of the beach-face slopes along most of the world's coastlines remain unavailable. This study presents a new dataset of beach-face slopes for the Australian coastline derived from a novel remote sensing technique. The dataset covers 13 200 km of sandy coast and provides an estimate of the beach-face slope every 100 m alongshore accompanied by an easy-to-apply measure of the confidence of each slope estimate. The dataset offers a unique view of large-scale spatial variability in the beach-face slope and addresses the growing need for this information to predict coastal hazards around Australia. The beach-face slope dataset and relevant metadata are available at 0.5281/zenodo.5606216 (Vos et al., 2021).
Shoreline recovery on wave-dominated sandy coastlines: the role of sandbar morphodynamics and nearshore wave parameters
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 03-2017
Supplementary material to "Beach-face slope dataset for Australia"
Publisher: Copernicus GmbH
Date: 18-11-2021
Interannual variability and controls of the Sydney wave climate
Publisher: Wiley
Date: 12-06-2009
DOI: 10.1002/JOC.1962
A multi-decade dataset of monthly beach profile surveys and inshore wave forcing at Narrabeen, Australia
Publisher: Springer Science and Business Media LLC
Date: 12-04-2016
Abstract: Long-term observational datasets that record and quantify variability, changes and trends in beach morphology at sandy coastlines together with the accompanying wave climate are rare. A monthly beach profile survey program commenced in April 1976 at Narrabeen located on Sydney’s Northern Beaches in southeast Australia is one of just a handful of sites worldwide where on-going and uninterrupted beach monitoring now spans multiple decades. With the Narrabeen survey program reaching its 40-year milestone in April 2016, it is timely that free and unrestricted use of these data be facilitated to support the next advances in beach erosion-recovery modelling. The archived dataset detailed here includes the monthly subaerial profiles, available bathymetry for each survey transect extending seawards to 20 m water depth, and time-series of ocean astronomical tide and inshore wave forcing at 10 m water depths, the latter corresponding to the location of in idual survey transects. In addition, on-going access to the results of the continuing monthly survey program is described.
Environmental signal shredding on sandy coastlines
Publisher: Copernicus GmbH
Date: 18-01-2019
Abstract: Abstract. How storm events contribute to long-term shoreline change over decades to centuries remains an open question in coastal research. Sand and gravel coasts exhibit remarkable resilience to event-driven disturbances, and, in settings where sea level is rising, shorelines retain almost no detailed information about their own past positions. Here, we use a high-frequency, multi-decadal observational record of shoreline position to demonstrate quantitative indications of morphodynamic turbulence – “signal shredding” – in a sandy beach system. We find that, much as in other dynamic sedimentary systems, processes of sediment transport that affect shoreline position at relatively short timescales may obscure or erase evidence of external forcing. This suggests that the physical effects of annual (or intra-annual) forcing events, including major storms, may convey less about the dynamics of long-term shoreline change – and vice versa – than coastal researchers might wish.
CoastSat: A Google Earth Engine-enabled Python toolkit to extract shorelines from publicly available satellite imagery
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 12-2019
Characteristics and beach safety knowledge of beachgoers on unpatrolled surf beaches in Australia
Publisher: Copernicus GmbH
Date: 17-03-2022
DOI: 10.5194/NHESS-22-909-2022
Abstract: Abstract. The majority of drowning deaths on Australian beaches occur significant distances away from lifeguard services. This study uses results of 459 surveys of beachgoers at five beaches unpatrolled by lifeguards in New South Wales, Australia, to improve understanding of who visits these beaches and why, and to identify risk factors associated with their beach safety knowledge and behaviour. Many unpatrolled beach users were infrequent beachgoers (64.9 %) with poor rip current hazard identification skills, who did not observe safety signage that was present, and yet intended to enter the water to swim (85.6 %) despite being aware that no lifeguards were present. The survey found that the main reasons why beachgoers visited unpatrolled beaches were because they were conveniently close to their holiday accommodation, or they represented a quieter location away from crowds. Future beach safety interventions in Australia need to extend beyond the standard “swim between the flags” message in recognition that many Australian beaches will remain unpatrolled, yet still frequented, for the foreseeable future. Future beach safety interventions for unpatrolled beaches should be tailored towards the varied demographic groups of beach users.
Shoreline rotation and response to nourishment of a gravel embayed beach using a low-cost video monitoring technique: San Michele-Sassi Neri, Central Italy
Publisher: Springer Science and Business Media LLC
Date: 15-11-2013
A reevaluation of coastal embayment rotation: The dominance of cross-shore versus alongshore sediment transport processes, Collaroy-Narrabeen Beach, southeast Australia
Publisher: American Geophysical Union (AGU)
Date: 23-12-2011
DOI: 10.1029/2011JF001989
A Python toolkit to monitor sandy shoreline change using high-resolution PlanetScope cubesats
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 11-2022
Coastal vulnerability across the Pacific dominated by El Niño/Southern Oscillation
Publisher: Springer Science and Business Media LLC
Date: 21-09-2015
DOI: 10.1038/NGEO2539
New insights into embayed beach rotation: The importance of wave exposure and cross-shore processes
Publisher: American Geophysical Union (AGU)
Date: 09-1598
DOI: 10.1002/2014JF003390
Beach response to Australian east coast lows: A comparison between the 2007 and 2015 events, Narrabeen-Collaroy Beach
Publisher: Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Date: 03-03-2016
DOI: 10.2112/SI75-078.1
Pacific shoreline erosion and accretion patterns controlled by El Niño/Southern Oscillation
Publisher: Springer Science and Business Media LLC
Date: 02-2023
Beach morphologies induced by breakwaters with different orientations
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 06-2015
Single extreme storm sequence can offset decades of shoreline retreat projected to result from sea-level rise
Publisher: Springer Science and Business Media LLC
Date: 12-05-2022
DOI: 10.1038/S43247-022-00437-2
Abstract: Extreme storms cause extensive beach-dune erosion and are typically considered to enhance coastal erosion due to sea-level rise. However, extreme storms can also have a positive contribution to the nearshore sediment budget by exchanging sediment between the lower and upper shoreface and/or between adjacent headlands, potentially mitigating some adverse sea-level rise impacts. Here we use three high-resolution morphological datasets of extreme storm-recovery sequences from Australia, the UK and Mexico to quantify the nearshore sediment budget and relate these episodic volume changes to long-term coastal projections. We show that sediment gains over the upper shoreface were large (59–140 m 3 /m) and sufficient to theoretically offset decades of projected shoreline retreat due to sea-level rise, even for a high-end greenhouse gas emissions scenario (SSP5-8.5). We conclude that increased confidence in shoreline projections relies fundamentally on a robust quantitative understanding of the sediment budget, including any major short-term sediment contribution by extreme storms.
A Multiscale Approach to Shoreline Prediction
Publisher: American Geophysical Union (AGU)
Date: 11-01-2021
DOI: 10.1029/2020GL090587
CoastSnap: A global citizen science program to monitor changing coastlines
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 08-2022
Single Extreme Strong Sequence Can Offset Decades of Shoreline Retreat by Sea-level Rise
Publisher: Research Square Platform LLC
Date: 23-08-2021
DOI: 10.21203/RS.3.RS-805900/V1
Abstract: Extreme storms cause extensive beach-dune erosion and are universally considered to enhance coastal erosion due to sea-level rise (SLR). However, extreme storms can also have a positive contribution to the nearshore sediment budget by exchanging sediment between the lower and upper shoreface and/or between adjacent headlands, potentially mitigating adverse SLR impacts. Here we use three high-resolution morphological datasets of extreme storm-recovery sequences from Australia, the UK and Mexico to quantify the nearshore sediment budget and relate these episodic volume changes to long-term coastal forecasts. We show that sediment gains over the upper shoreface and beach were very significant (58-140 m 3 /m) and sufficient to offset decades of predicted shoreline retreat due to SLR, even for an upper SSP5-8.5 scenario. It is evident that increased confidence in shoreline predictions due to SLR relies fundamentally on robust quantitative understanding of the sediment budget, in particular any long-term contribution of sediment transport from outside the nearshore region.
Annual prediction of shoreline erosion and subsequent recovery
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 12-2017
Wave direction shift triggered severe erosion of beaches in estuaries and bays with limited post‐storm recovery
Publisher: Wiley
Date: 05-10-2020
DOI: 10.1002/ESP.5005
Assessment and integration of conventional, RTK-GPS and image-derived beach survey methods for daily to decadal coastal monitoring
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 02-2022
UAVs for coastal surveying
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 08-2016
Extreme coastal erosion enhanced by anomalous extratropical storm wave direction
Publisher: Springer Science and Business Media LLC
Date: 20-07-2017
DOI: 10.1038/S41598-017-05792-1
Abstract: Extratropical cyclones (ETCs) are the primary driver of large-scale episodic beach erosion along coastlines in temperate regions. However, key drivers of the magnitude and regional variability in rapid morphological changes caused by ETCs at the coast remain poorly understood. Here we analyze an unprecedented dataset of high-resolution regional-scale morphological response to an ETC that impacted southeast Australia, and evaluate the new observations within the context of an existing long-term coastal monitoring program. This ETC was characterized by moderate intensity (for this regional setting) deepwater wave heights, but an anomalous wave direction approximately 45 degrees more counter-clockwise than average. The magnitude of measured beach volume change was the largest in four decades at the long-term monitoring site and, at the regional scale, commensurate with that observed due to extreme North Atlantic hurricanes. Spatial variability in morphological response across the study region was predominantly controlled by alongshore gradients in storm wave energy flux and local coastline alignment relative to storm wave direction. We attribute the severity of coastal erosion observed due to this ETC primarily to its anomalous wave direction, and call for greater research on the impacts of changing storm wave directionality in addition to projected future changes in wave heights.
Bayesian Networks in coastal engineering: Distinguishing descriptive and predictive applications
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 05-2018
Coastal Storm Definition
Publisher: Wiley
Date: 08-04-2017
Modes of Berm and Beachface Recovery Following Storm Reset: Observations Using a Continuously Scanning Lidar
Publisher: American Geophysical Union (AGU)
Date: 03-2019
DOI: 10.1029/2018JF004895
Calibration data requirements for modelling subaerial beach storm erosion
Publisher: Elsevier BV
Date: 10-2019
Prediction of Storm Impacts on Beach and Dune Systems
Publisher: Wiley
Date: 24-10-2014
Can an early-warning system help minimize the impacts of coastal storms? A case study of the 2012 Halloween storm, northern Italy
Publisher: Copernicus GmbH
Date: 21-01-2016
DOI: 10.5194/NHESS-16-209-2016
Abstract: Abstract. The Emilia-Romagna early-warning system (ER-EWS) is a state-of-the-art coastal forecasting system that comprises a series of numerical models (COSMO, ROMS, SWAN and XBeach) to obtain a daily 3-day forecast of coastal storm hazard at eight key sites along the Emilia-Romagna coastline (northern Italy). On the night of 31 October 2012, a major storm event occurred that resulted in elevated water levels (equivalent to a 1-in-20- to 1-in-50-year event) and widespread erosion and flooding. Since this storm happened just 1 month prior to the roll-out of the ER-EWS, the forecast performance related to this event is unknown. The aim of this study was to therefore reanalyse the ER-EWS as if it had been operating a day before the event and determine to what extent the forecasts may have helped reduce storm impacts. Three different reanalysis modes were undertaken: (1) a default forecast (DF) mode based on 3-day wave and water-level forecasts and default XBeach parameters (2) a measured offshore (MO) forecast mode using wave and water-level measurements and default XBeach parameters and (3) a calibrated XBeach (CX) mode using measured boundary conditions and an optimized parameter set obtained through an extensive calibration process. The results indicate that, while a "code-red" alert would have been issued for the DF mode, an underprediction of the extreme water levels of this event limited high-hazard forecasts to only two of the eight ER-EWS sites. Forecasts based on measured offshore conditions (the MO mode) more-accurately indicate high-hazard conditions for all eight sites. Further considerable improvements are observed using an optimized XBeach parameter set (the CX mode) compared to default parameters. A series of what-if scenarios at one of the sites show that artificial dunes, which are a common management strategy along this coastline, could have hypothetically been constructed as an emergency procedure to potentially reduce storm impacts.
DuneMaker 2.0: A MATLAB tool to simulate artificial dunes using XBeach
Publisher: Unpublished
Date: 2014
Related Organisations
Related Funding Activities
Linkage Projects - Grant ID: LP170100161
Start Date: 10-2018
End Date: 06-2024
Amount: $505,000.00
Funder: Australian Research Council
View Funded ActivityLinkage Projects - Grant ID: LP220200780
Start Date: 12-2023
End Date: 12-2026
Amount: $342,924.00
Funder: Australian Research Council
View Funded Activity