Quantifying the impact of infiltration on dune erosion under waves & surge. Through a series of controlled laboratory experiments and numerical model development, this project aims to determine and quantify for the first time the role of water infiltration on sandy soil stability at actively eroding coastal sand dunes. This project expects to generate much-needed understanding of fundamental dune erosion processes using innovative instrumentation to obtain continuous measurements of wave-dune in ....Quantifying the impact of infiltration on dune erosion under waves & surge. Through a series of controlled laboratory experiments and numerical model development, this project aims to determine and quantify for the first time the role of water infiltration on sandy soil stability at actively eroding coastal sand dunes. This project expects to generate much-needed understanding of fundamental dune erosion processes using innovative instrumentation to obtain continuous measurements of wave-dune interactions, dune profile evolution, and water infiltration. Expected outcomes of this project include improved coastal engineering models to predict dune erosion under waves and increasing water levels. This should provide significant benefit to the future management of coastal assets using nature-based solutions.Read moreRead less
Advancing predictions of ecosystem-based coastal flood defence. This project aims to develop a new framework to accurately predict how a diverse range of coastal ecosystems (seagrasses, corals, mangroves) act to reduce coastal flooding. The project aspires to develop novel theory and models to quantify how the large, complex roughness of these ecosystems interacts with coastal flows to attenuate extreme water levels at coastlines. Expected outcomes include new predictive models and guidelines th ....Advancing predictions of ecosystem-based coastal flood defence. This project aims to develop a new framework to accurately predict how a diverse range of coastal ecosystems (seagrasses, corals, mangroves) act to reduce coastal flooding. The project aspires to develop novel theory and models to quantify how the large, complex roughness of these ecosystems interacts with coastal flows to attenuate extreme water levels at coastlines. Expected outcomes include new predictive models and guidelines that can be immediately incorporated into coastal hazard forecasts and engineering practice. This will allow greatly-improved predictions of how coastal ecosystems support the safety and resilience of coastal communities worldwide, and new design guidelines to boost nature-based coastal defence projects.Read moreRead less
The Spectral Evolution of Ocean Swell. This project aims to develop a comprehensive understanding of the processes responsible for the evolution of ocean swell. It will generate new knowledge in the field by using a combination of newly available satellite data and buoys strategically located along two propagation paths across the Pacific. The expected outcomes will be a unique data set and significant advances in our ability to accurately predict ocean swell. Swell prediction remains one of the ....The Spectral Evolution of Ocean Swell. This project aims to develop a comprehensive understanding of the processes responsible for the evolution of ocean swell. It will generate new knowledge in the field by using a combination of newly available satellite data and buoys strategically located along two propagation paths across the Pacific. The expected outcomes will be a unique data set and significant advances in our ability to accurately predict ocean swell. Swell prediction remains one of the major short-comings of ocean wave prediction models. As swell conditions dominate ocean wave climate for 75% of the time, accurate prediction is critical for coastal protection, understanding air-sea interaction and maintaining ship and port operations.Read moreRead less